Front Axle Part 2

So the last installment saw me start the repair / refurbish works to the front axle, and as with most jobs I undertake on my Defender, it has expanded to a much bigger undertaking. This part probably more so then any other.

Towards the end of the first period of works I realised that I needed a new diff to fit the Ashcroft shafts, and so a purchase was made, I opted to get the diff pegged and to have the Ashcroft locker added.

Some may think that a locker is an odd choice considering what I have planned for this vehicle – i.e. not a hard-core off roader, especially considering the combined cost of the front and rear locker with compressor. But having taken part in off road bits and bobs what I’ve noticed is the Defender does mostly fine with open diffs, but in situations where wheels lose contact with the ground a more committed approach (floor it) is required. And while this does the job it does open the vehicle up to greater chance of damage, whether that’s body or drive chain.

Looking at videos of drivers off roading with lockers installed, they can use a much slower steady pace to get over obstacles other have to drive at hard to get over.

I also considered E lockers, or Auto lockers, limited slips, but these don’t seem to be as good an option for off roading.

How the E-locker works is via a magnetic pin that scales a ramp to push in place a locking plate. It works well, but if you change direction, due to the ramped design, the diff opens up again. There are a couple of YouTube Videos demonstrating this. While this particular side effect isn’t a huge problem, it’s not ideal. The cost of E lockers seems a lot higher than that Air Lockers (based on Aus website prices, can’t find a UK dealer). A positive is that an air compressor and airline is not required. But typically it’s useful to lower tyre pressure and then increase again when going on and off road, so some form of compressor is needed, perhaps a cheaper portable version from Halfords, but on board air is plus.

ATB’s, Auto’s and Limited Slips, all take an amount of slips to take place before locking, which loses its effectiveness off road, and also allows wheel speed to be rapidly increased and then stopped by the automatic action (during wheel lift), which could potential introduce shock loading. Once again various YouTube clips show this in action.

There are other brands of air lock, but I know ARB & Ashcroft, have done since I got into Land Rovers, so with the tried and tested theory, it was ARB & Ashcroft.

Well the above is my logic behind my choice, I’m sure some will disagree, and have better ideas. Which is fine, but for me, that the plan!

The front Locker is an Ashcroft unit, as this is where I got the diff from so makes sense to get it all in one hit, and the install of this will be noted below as it’s just a bolt in job now the hard work is done. The rear will be an ARB as Ashcroft doesn’t make a locker for the Salisbury (Dana 60) Axle; so keep posted!

But now on to the continuation of the works. Firstly I finished off the brake callipers, new seals and paint top up, while waiting for the new goodies to arrive. Looking shinny. Let’s hope they work!

 

Then the big day came, and my new front Diff arrived.

The fitting of the diff while a little awkward was straight forward, if you had a ramp and transmission jack this would have been a doddle. 

Back on with the diff guard. Done this before.

And run in the airline to the location of the compressor – a future post on the fitment of this will be uploaded. I topped up the oil and that was that for the diff.

My attention now goes back to the rest of the front axle. Its clear to see I’ve been putting this off, and the reason for this is that while stripping axle apart the two bolts that hold in the LHs calliper were seized solid. I had to drill them out, unfortunately in doing so I also drilled the thread pretty much wrote off the swivel case. This turned out to be a night mare to get hold of. In the end it was trip to a scrap yard that saved the day. But all the above took some time, hence why the ends are only being built up no. Though I would add this is, as recently I’ve looked back over my posts and noted that I’ve noted very little about the troubles I faced during these works, of which there are many! I will make a better effort to include this going forward.

First task was to fit the new bearing races to the hubs.

Then stuck the discs on the hubs.

Next was to install the swivels, upper pin in loosely first, and then the lower pin, with gasket. Tighten to full torque, remove the upper pin and add shims. Pull test with a spring balance to achieve correct figure, more or less shims to suit, and then tighten top bolts to torque. Don’t forget mud shield and brake brackets top and bottom.

Mud shields on.

Next up, CV’s and half shafts. Nice Ashcroft unites being installed, at this point I also connected the steering links.

Then on with the stub axles and stud mud shields.

I then packed out all 4 bearings with grease and installed into the hub ready for I fitting, along with the seal.

Stick the hub on, spacer and lock nut, DTI on to check free movement, adjusting lock nut as needed. Once at the correct value, lock ring on, not bent at this stage, 2nf lock nut, then re-DTI again to confirm all is good. Bend over the lock ring.

Drive member installed, again another Ashcroft item. Stick on a shim and the circlip, DTI half shaft movement. Adjust shim thickness to suit.

Stick on the drive member cap, and then on with the brakes with new pads.

Stick grease in the CV, as recommended by Ashcroft I used Morris K48. 

Wheels back on, bleed the brakes – job done!

That took a while, starting end of July, complete early September! I still need to centre the front axle with the adjustable panhard bar, I will also re-test end movement on the half shafts, and hubs once it’s had a run just to make sure nothing has fallen out of tolerance. All tracking and steering needs to be set up too, but I will most likely take it to a garage with the correct equipment to do this.

ARB Compressor Install

With all the adventures of the front axle and the requirement for installing a new diff, with air locker I’ve decided not to wait to install rear locker and compressor at the same time. So this post will cover the install of the compressor. Before I go through the details, I will note that I was very impressed with the comprehensive kit and instructions that came with the compressor, it made the installed very easy.

Firstly I decided on a location for the compressor, after a bit of through I opted to install under the drive seat, in the seat box. Have testing the location and marked it out, I drilled 4no holes.

Then made sure it was the correct size by offering up the backing plate.

Then drilled holes for wires, and airlines and fed in the wire.

Then mounted the compressor in its new home. I opted to fit the fuse and relay to the side of the box with captive nuts.

Then set about installing the pressure sensor and airline fitting to the compressor.

I cut a hole in the seat box cover so the airline fitting could poke out, which allows the use of the airline without lifting the cover. More on this is another post.

I also opted to relocate the air filter of the compressor so it’s not stuck in the seat box.

Last job was to run the wiring to the battery, and then to the dash and install the buttons.

As you can see from the picture I only have 4 switch spaces left in the dash, which will be used by the Windows and seat heaters. Leaving no room for anything else. I planned the dash and installed it a long time ago and things have moved on from these days so I think I will be calling Raptor for some new fascia’s, and I also have another plan to improve the dash, but more on this another day!

Seat Box Covers - Modification

The seat boxes of Defenders have two storage boxes underneath, the passenger side houses the battery, and in my case batteries and aux fuses and relays. The driver’s side is empty, at least for me, not sure that’s the case with all models.

The covers for these storage areas are a slide in type that has a latch externally. The lids have guides on the bottom, and the seat boxes have a lip at the back to hold the cover in place – which I have removed.

I was never keen on the latch that they come with as they sit on the external face of the seat box, behind the driver’s leg, and the locking system is a padlock. So I’ve decided to modify the covers to take an internal latch and lock.

Opting to do this has presented some challenges, such as needing to bring the seat box cover upward through the seat base as the latch prevents it from sliding. And in turn the corners of the cover clashing with the lower seat frame. I’ve overcome this by trimming the corners of the cover, as you’ll see below. I also cut an opening for the new latch – passenger side.

To allow fitment of this catch.

As I had removed the lip at the back of the seat box, I welded in taps on the cover.

Then a bit of box section was added to the underside of the sea box to ensure the latch engages firmly. Drivers side.

Then a hole was cut into the drivers cover for the lock unit.

Then two bits of flat bar were bent to shape to hold the lock into place, then drilled and tapped to accept bolts.

Then theses were welded on to the cover.

Bolts added to hold the lock into place.

Cover test fitted, drivers side.

Then all the parts were painted.

Latch unit added. Passenger side.

The foam sealant to stop any rattling

Fitted in place. And as you can see where the corners have been trimmed there are holes in the seat box. 

These were filled with painted aluminium. Passenger side.

Driver side.

I’m pleased with the result, and this was a job I’ve had waiting for some time so good to get it out the way with.